Slum – Roč – Hum


St. Jerome

Starting from the foot of Roč towards Hum, we pass along the Glagolitic Alley, a trail of eleven monuments dedicated to the Glagolitic script and the roots of Slavic literacy. Hum is said to be “the smallest town in the world”. It is a town in terms of medieval architecture, not in today's sense of the word. Its urban features are given by the walls and the fact that it is the administrative center for the surrounding villages. One of the customs surviving from the Middle Ages is the election of the district-prefect, a custom restored in 1977 and held each year in June. However, the attraction that brings the most people to Hum is the cemetery Church of St. Jerome.

Its interior hides valuable frescoes from the end of the 12th or the beginning of the 13th c. On the triumphal arch is the scene of the Annunciation depicted in front of the architectural background of a city. The angel is in movement, with fluttering robes while the Virgin Mary is seated on the throne, spinning wool. This is an apocryphic motif from the Proto-Gospel of James, popular in the Christian East. The finest representations are motifs of the Deposition of Christ and Entombment of Christ on the northern wall. They show the painter’s great skill. Standing a bit longer in front of the figure of Joseph of Arimathea with noble old man's features, as well as the draperies of the furthest figure to the left, will leave a deep impression on you. The impression of physical is achieved by the consistent alternation of light and dark strokes that form the drapery of the figures’ clothes. The hems of clothing are accentuated by light contours, lumeggiature, while the architecture – by the white color. Until the present, Byzantinism was excessively considered a dominant component of this painting. However, recent research has recognized it as a link connecting the Venice-Aquileia and Austria-Salzburg painters circle. We can still hear echoes of Fučić’s ideas that the exceptional quality of these paintings surpasses the abilities of the area and local commissioners, and that it must have been commissioned by the Aquileian Patriarchate, the mightiest feudal lords of Istria at the time.

The key of the chapel is kept at the tavern so you do not have to leave hungry when returning it. One can become fond of Istria through the palate, too, therefore try the Istrian supa, fuži and pljukanci pasta, prosciutto, truffles, asparagus, Malvasia and/or Teran wine. If you happen to come in October, you are welcome to the Brandy Festival. We suggest that you do not continue driving, but instead continue on foot or take the train. In the vicinity of Hum is a railroad station from where you can reach Cerovlje by train. From there you can easily reach Draguć, Pazin, Lindar or Paz.

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